The newest link in Cosimo Mammoliti’s burgeoning chain of restaurants is Bar Centrale di Terroni , Price and Yonge, which anchors the Rosedale strip known for its fine and expensive food shops aka the Five Thieves. OK, Mammoliti, drop the humble mask, you’re dealing with the rich terroni (peasants) now.
In 1992, Mammoliti sneaked onto the scene with Terroni on Queen St. W and it was an immediate hit with fauxbos who loved eating , as they were told, like the peasants of the mezzogiorno, Italy’s most depressed region. A jug of wine, a chunk of bread, a thick soup, pasta and of course pizza, close your eyes and imagine you feel the blazing sun of the southernmost tip of the Italian peninsula. Go pagan baby. Italian food seems so basic and it is so forgiving of even mediocre cookery.
Mammoliti hasn’t stopped tapping into Torontonians’ yearning for his fantasy of the old country. He’s tweaking the idea brilliantly. The Terroni in the old Adelaide Courthouse is Opera Buffa, Osteria Tria E Patria capitalized on the discovery of Puglia, the long neglected heel of Italy, La Bettoia is a hole in the wall where you can abbagnarisi la pizzu (wet the beak) Terroni Rosedale was, until it shuttered recently, safe for wives and mothers. When I passed by I sometimes wondered if they weren’t all asleep in there. Mammoliti moreover isn’t afraid to set his own rules. You eat at his imperial pleasure. My way or out the door, as several disgruntled customers found out when they demanded substitutions on the menu or knives to cut pizza! Doesn’t matter. Mammoliti just keeps printing lire.
And he’s going to continue to do so at Bar Centrale, a spanking remake of the old premises of Patachou – the longtime French cafe has now moved a block south. Once again Mammoliti has mined smalltown Italy for his inspiration and with panache. Almost every railway station has a Bar Centrale. Of course real Bar Centrales tend to look glum, travelling is not really carefree. Have I lost the tickets, did I remember to pack everything, perhaps a quick grappa to soothe the butterflies ?But Mammoliti as usual lets his imagination soar above such gritty details. He has transformed a skinny awkward space into a smart eating bar with sparkling lights, tables running along the windows. This is as playful an evocation of Italian ordinary as a scene from a Fellini flick.
Service is excellent .On a busy weekday night, we are assured it’s five minute wait, and it is.Terroni graphics are always stylish and we scan the Aperitivi Birri & Vino Sfuso eagerly. Don’t recognize a wine. Another Mammoliti ploy. Stun ‘em with strange. Our server Jason to the rescue. He pours us a 2009 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore Casal di Serra, Unmani Ronehi, Le Marche! I’m not kidding. Thank goodness it’s only $9.80 a delicious glass. Whew. We move to an equally challenging menu. Plates are incidentallly small. Do you know what “Dalla Friggitrice” means. Frying. We start with tapas, a deep fried croquette of egglant $9 which we dip into a bracing mint pesto.But where’s the eggplant? It’s overwhelmed by the mint.
Have you ever tried ‘Nduja? It’s a fiery sausage spread over a toast with smoked buffalo ricotta and caramelized onions $9. Terrific. So is the beef tartar with duck fat zabayon (heated custard), Italian black truffle shavings $12. Now for something from the oven. A bright green chard-wrapped sphere of Orzo, $11, pasta which looks like rice, baked barley, artichoke, leeks and just the teensiest amount of fish – - looks loads better than it tastes. Needs seasoning. The glamour ravioli $12, handmade pasta filled with lobster and mascarpone in a tomato, zucchini and olive oil sauce is good. We check with Jason whether we should have the meat of the day, lamb shanks, or seared sushi-grade tuna $15. He’s right again. Tuna is fresh and juicy.
Desserts, both $8, have a sauce shortage. The salted caramel mousse is delectable but where’s the raspberry sauce gone?As for the Bigne’ di Pistacchio, it urgently needs an airpump. A terribly tough cream puff stuffed with ground pistachios is accompanied by a useless dab of chocolate sauce.
Mammoliti has it almost all right. The buzz, the style, the warmth…the patio’s already overflowing. Bar Centrale has reinvigorated the Rosedale/Yonge strip. Now it’s up to chef Fabio Moro to bring the food up to speed.
Bar Centrale di Terroni 1095 Yonge St 416-504-1992 Wheelchair access. Open 8-24. Food plus tax $95
