oh that decadent knish, now only two weeks old?


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I got an email criticizing my review of Caplansky’s – signed

” As a local resident and soon to be regular, I’m almost insulted at your review. Give the folks there a chance to work out the kinks before smashing them. Do you wear a dress shirt off the hanger? No. You iron first.”

always pleased to  get comments I posted it and replied “ Caplansky’s has had smoked meat and knish on the menu at Monarch Tavern for more than ayear. Should have got ”em right by now.

My correspondent then asked I take down his comment adding,

“re: smoked meat – he has it right, and has his own style

So what, smoked meat is a highly contentious food open to criticism

re: knish’s – he’s only had it on the menu 2 weeks.”

Funny Thing: Ruth Reichl declared it decadent months ago!!”

If a restaurateur wants to defend his cooking, I suggest he comments himself rather than asking a friend to do so.


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About Gina Mallet

Gina Mallet is the author of Last Chance to Eat, The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World, which won the 2005 James Beard Award for writing on food, an account of the lost world of eating. She is a former theatre critic, and now the restaurant critic for the National Post of Canada.
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