The Chateau D’If, France’s deadliest prison where Edmond Dantes was thrown by his jealous rivals - only to emerge as the Count of Monte Cristo with a huge fortune he spends on revenge. Before I got to Marseille I thought I would tread the Vieux Port in the steps of Marius in Marcel Pagnol’s Fanny Trilogy. Yes, there is a Pagnol tour, I see. But Marseille has turned out to be much more of a Count of Monte Cristo place, with handsome l9th century houses suggesting an affluent oligarchy. It takes about 20 minutes to get to Chateau D’If by tourist boat, fee 15euros including entrance to the prison. In fact, we are charged another 5 Euros when we arrive. And the boat goes off and leaves us for 90 minutes! We’re meant to have a 45 minute stay and believe you me, that’s more than enough. The Abbe Faria’s cell is most evocative: he it turns out was a real mad prisoner
…And the plaque to 3,500 Protestants who refused to convert and were imprisoned is a reminder of France’s ethnic cleansing in the 16th century
…..But after that….Had to hurry to make my last lunch in Marseille- at Le Moment, a new wave place, a quick walk from the Vieux Port. Christian Ernst presents his cooking with a painter’s flair…..
I see he has a Menu dehydration for 69 Euros – the only dish I can understand is fines hermes gnocchi with a veloute of mushrooms and mascarpone foam….there’s also pine smoked foie gras with chutney and gingerbread…. the chef says he will cook an 80 Euro lunch for me and according to the two retired Englishmen at the next table – who are eating a simple porcini risotto with fresh cepes – I should prepare for a feast…….I eat an amuse bouche of langoustine cream with little threads, like shredded wheat, of cardamom seed…..sea snails and sardines cracker and foam……A sea bass arrives with crisp skin, it’s been cooked at low heat and comes with foamed white wine fish broth, pistachios, scallion and zucchini skin puree….I thought the Tian of cauliflower cream layered with slivers of browned potato and little shellfish was so pretty that it must be dessert. My neighbours had to wise me up…the tour de force was a little roasted red snapper with chopped tiny squid tumbling out of its gut.. When I congratulated the chef on his originality, he said “I hope it’s not too original.” Quite right said my neighbours, “The French are conservative.” so am I usually. I end with some salty caramel butter and gingerbread and a mound of roasted banana with caramel sauce and peanuts.. now this is what it means to enjoy lunch for almost three hours….
Then I have to run, I have a train to catch….
