Bouillabaisse at last

the soup at Le Miramar

If you  wish to see and be seen eating bouillabaisse,go to Le Miramar on the Quai Du Port , the left bank.  Swallow hard and cough up fifty five bucks per person, and minimum order is for two. Eating out under cover, listening to the singing of the shrouds of the yachts jostling in the harbour, is delightful, and watching the bling off the yachts is entertainment ….A staffordshire bull terrier pulls a yachtie in tee and dad’s jeans into the resto, yachts favour dogs, ahead of beachwear bunny.  One youngish woman sips wine as she reads a book…. I Long to know what it is…..

before the deluge

I’m sitting next to the chef of the Grand Hotel in Gstaad, he’s drinking pink Laurent Perrier, he flips his card at me. “I make Bouillabaisse too.”……..Menus are huge, all fishThe starter is a toast dripping with black truffles

black truffflemania

Bouillabaisse arrives with a flourish, three sambas floating. A deep bronze colour, aniseed fragrance, good weight, not too thick….No, no, cries the server as I dip in my spoon…Not like that. Like this. He picks up a toast in one hand, a garlic pig in another. Rubs garlic vigorously into toast, spreads the toast with a gallop of roulle, the rose coloured, saffron scented mayo  and lets it float on the soup it sinks…..Now that’s a gorgeously complex chunk of taste and texture…Second half of the bouillabaisse is the fish…

chef buff a with fish

hardly any room for dessert, kind of ice cream shake and brittle pops…pink marshmallows…

 

 

 

 

leave just as place is taking off……

 

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About Gina Mallet

Gina Mallet is the author of Last Chance to Eat, The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World, which won the 2005 James Beard Award for writing on food, an account of the lost world of eating. She is a former theatre critic, and now the restaurant critic for the National Post of Canada.
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